![]() |
|
|
WBYC - Summer Cruise 2008
Scilly Isles "HEAVEN AND HELL" THE LOG OF GREENSLEEVES WBYC SUMMER EXPEDITION 2008 CREW Pat Jensen - Owner & Skipper Mick Aspell - Mate Liz Aspell - 1st hand (field promotion to Engineer) VESSEL Greensleeves - Shipman 29 At 09.00 hrs on Sunday 20th July, Greensleeves slipped her moorings on the Club pontoon and set out for Swansea. The promised NW wind came stubbornly from the West. So it was under engine power that we rolled and pitched under leaden skies away from Weston Bay. The familiar buoys of the Bristol Channel passed steadily astern as the day wound on. Nash Passage was entered as a way point at 12.00 hrs. The ebb tide carried us along and we rounded Nash Point at 13.15 hrs. By 17.15 hrs we were calling Swansea Harbour asking for permission to enter. By 17.30 hrs we were alongside the re-fueling berth in the Marina. Way back in 2006, WBYC crews had discovered the delights of a certain chinese eating house in Swansea. So the Greensleeves joined the crews of Lasten and Gunsmoke tramping the streets until we found that sign "eat as much as you want". We did. At 07.30 hrs on Monday 21st July we prepared for sea. We were bound for Padstow. The wind was NW force 4/5 and our course SW, so we hoisted sail and headed down channel. Later, we had a discussion on channel 77 with the "rest of the fleet". ETA Padstow would be approx low water resulting in a night at anchor in the Pool and, as the weather sign were good, a better bet was a direct passage to The Scilly Isles. At 14.00 hrs we altered course to pass close down the east shore of Lundy isle to give us an interesting way point. At 16.00 hrs we enjoyed a close view of the impressive cliffs of this lonely outpost. Our next way point was The Seven Stones. The night passage which followed was one of Liz,s "heavens". There was a full moon, a host of stars and the occasional fishing boat as we sailed along with music wafting from the cockpit speakers. By 10.00 hrs on Tuesday morning we were crossing the traffic separation lanes off Lands End as the wind fell light. We then motor sailed through the traffic and passed The Seven Stones on our stbd side. "I smell gas" This statement, by Liz, brought our attention to the fact that the gas feed pipe to the cooker had sprung a leak. As we approached St Mary's Sound we were hailed on VHF by Lasten. She had taken "the pretty route" but her more powerful engine had enabled her to match Greensleeves passage time to this point. Needless to say a race ensued to the Spanish Ledges cardinal buoy. They won! The two boats then motored in consort onto visitors moorings off Hugh Town on the main island. 07.30 hrs on 23rd July: Overnight, a temporary repair was carried out on the gas installation and after hot bacon sandwiches we were ashore by 09.30 hrs to catch a ferry to Tresco. We were joined by the rest of the expedition as we rambled across Tresco taking in the sights and peace of this beautiful island. After returning to the Main Island we spent the evening enjoying local food and drink in a tavern on the quay in ST Mary's. By 10.00 hrs on Wednesday we had dropped our moorings and accompanied by the other Weston boats, were bound for the island of St Agnes. Strictly speaking we were bound for an anchorage between St Agnes and the island of Gugh called "Porth Conger". Slowly, we motored into the anchorage, and with Kitten Hill due east, we dropped our hook in crystal clear water onto a sandy bottom. 1 Having fixed the dingy outboard (dirty plug and connector), we motored ashore for an afternoon exploration. We walked across the the sandbar between Gugh and St Agnes which turns the gap between the two islands from sound to sheltered haven at all but high tide. At 15.00 hrs, after another sun drenched wander over a Scillian isle, all 4 crews congregated at the pub alongside the anchorage. It was decided to move Greensleeves to a slightly deeper anchorage to ensure she would have sufficient depth under her keel at our planned departure time of 06.00 hrs the following morning. Pat turned the ignition key to start the engine - nothing! The electrical circuit to the engine was dead. An investigation was started by the skipper and mate. The sun and heat which had seemed so pleasant as we lazed the day away, now seemed a burden as we toiled away with our heads buried deep within the engine compartment. After 3 hrs we admitted that we had run out of ideas and realized that, anchored by an isolated island in the Scillies the possibility of finding a marine engineer with spare parts was zero. It was agreed that Lasten would tow us out of the anchorage in the morning and, once clear of ST Mary's sound, we would sail NW for the mainland and engineering support. At 06.00 hrs on Friday the 25th July we hauled up our anchor and Lasten towed us to clear water of the Spanish Ledges. We were concerned that we could not raise full sail as the foot of our main was torn. But we need not have worried as the gods were with us and within an hour the wind was firmly on our stern and we could raise our Spinnaker. For the next seven hours Greensleeves sailed WNW with her yellow and green kite pulling her at up to 8 kts. The sun beat down and the mate adopted the guise of an Arab with a bright orange wetted towel draped over his head and shoulders as he toiled at the helm. It had been agreed that Greensleeves and Lasten would rendezvous at 49.55N - 005.12W. As we approached "the spot", the wind fell light and we began to wallow in typical Atlantic swells south of the Lizard. Our trusty tug however appeared over the horizon and warps were readied. The tow started. It was immediately apparent that the tow would be difficult in the swell which came from the port quarter as both boats yawed and the tow jerked violently. The tow broke 3 times and some damage was sustained on Greensleeves bow but eventually, as night fell, the lights of Falmouth hove into view. Calls to Marina and harbour controls brought no positive responses so Greensleeves and Lasten dropped anchor close to the shore and fleshpots of Falmouth Town. Both crews were very tired, so the order of the day was stiff drinks and "so to bed". At 08.00 hrs on Saturday the 26 July, in very reduced visibility, the two boats raised the hook and Lasten towed Greensleeves to Mylor Marina in the hope of "engineering support". By 09.00 hrs both boats were moored (with Gunsmoke & Moth) alongside at Mylor and Pat sought help. No luck! So skipper and mate started to remove all access panels to the engine and its "bits". The mate wracked his brains and stubbornly applied fault finding techniques from his engineering past. Time passed. Eureka!!! Suddenly the engine "kicked". The fault had been traced to a plug and socket assembly buried deep within the engine compartment. By 15.00 hrs the boat had been re-assembled, the crew cleaned and ready for a run ashore. Gunsmoke looked like a vessel crowded with illegal immigrants as she ferried three WBYC crews back to Falmouth for provisions, drink and pub grub. Here it was that Liz chose "scallops" from the menu and she and her mate (me) eat a perfectly cooked meal of succulent sea food. At 22.00 hrs a somewhat unsteady, motley collection of matalos gathered by the harbour wall to board our "water taxi". So to bed in Mylor. Sunday the 27th July dawned and the sky promised a day of blazing summer sun. By 09.30 hrs we were hauling Pat up the mast on Greensleeves to solve a problem of a lost spinnaker halliard and a jammed back up. By 09.30 hrs the spinnaker halliard had been re-rove through a spare block at the mast head and the jammed halliard eased by use of the magic WD40. Pat down to earth, the crews set out for a "stroll" to the local village. However, the skipper placed a time limit on this expedition as we did not want to pay another £26 to the "robber barons" of Mylor Marina. Before departure at 12.30 hrs we had time to eat what was voted the best Cornish pasty of all time!!!! So we resumed our travels. This time the destination was Fowey. Up sails and with the wind from the east we were close hauled in slight seas and blazing afternoon sun and on our way. By 15.30 hrs with Mevigissey abeam the wind strength fell and with sails stowed we motored towards our destination. By 17.30 hrs we were feeling our way up river passed crowded Fowey town and pontoon mooring buoys towards pontoons shown in Reeds as "for visitors on south side". 2 There was "no room at the inn" so we headed back down stream just 200 yds and found an isolated but pleasant pontoon on the opposite bank to the China Clay Factory. Lasten's arrival later that evening brought food; they had caught mackerel on route and we joined them in eating the catch. Later, a water taxi was hired to take us to the flesh spots of Fowey. The King of Prussia (named after a local pirate) provided food for the hungry and drink for the thirsty. The last water taxi was 22.15 hrs so by 22.30 hrs Pat was entertaining both crews to his philosophy of life as we consumed a little more alcohol. Monday the 28th July and the destination was the Helford River. After ablutions at Fowey Gallants Sailing Club, we refueled at Toms Yard. Passage started at 12.30 hrs on a course of 210 degs with the wind fine on the port bow. Greensleeves and Lasten sailed sailed close hauled until boat speed dropped to less then 4 kts, when both vessels started their engines. Just as the Greensleeves settled down to a fish salad at 15.00 hrs the first rain of the expedition arrived and wind strength increased. A slight alteration of course was necessary to clear the large vessels anchored in Falmouth Bay and then at 17.00 hrs Greensleeves reached the way point designated in Reeds as the entrance to Helford River. We motored up river and found moorings for Greensleeves and Lasten. The rain continued to fall, causing the holes in the fore deck created during the tow from the Lizard, to deposit water onto the bedding of the crew nesting in the fore peak. The mate undertook a temporary repair by inserting two wooden bungs into the holes. The morning of the 29th dawned wet and windy. The shipping forecast was not promising "West force 4/5 occasional 7 later. Newlyn was our destination so after a quick breakfast of toast and tea we dropped our moorings and the two vessels headed out. As we turned onto a heading of 150 degs the wind looked favorable for a sail so on Greensleeves we raised our reefed main and partial foresail. But the wind swung round and headed us so within 15 minutes we were under bare poles motoring into a heavy swell. As we approached the Lizard the wind was, as predicted, westerly force 4/5 gusting 30 kts and Falmouth Coastguard broadcast a strong wind warning. Off the Lizard, progress was slow as both boats crashed, pitching and rolling into the seas. Once round the Lizard the average wind strengthened and the seas were crashing against the port quarter. Steering was "hard work" as we headed for Mounts Bay and the occasional sea dropped its full load on the helmsman. Les on Moth called on VHF and stated that he was 8 nms astern and had decided in his single handed vessel to return to Falmouth. We wished him luck and crashed on our way. With 15nms to run the seas began to abate and the wind strength fell a little. We set a scrap of jib to ease our labouring engine and headed for the final way point. Once again Reeds had got it right as we arrived at "3rd lamp standard from the left on the harbour wall"! The harbour Master found Greensleeves and Lasten adjacent pontoon berths. So at 17.30 hrs we "finished with engines". The crew of Greensleeves were ok but clothing, bedding and mattresses in the forepeak were soaked. The temporary repair had proved inadequate in the conditions. Time for a visit ashore. Soon six weather beaten sailors were settled in a delightful pub, drinking ale etc. and being entertained by a folk group. As the evening rolled on, the group was enlarged by two. Terry from Lasten fetched his guitar and entertained all present with his well known ballads (including Vindalo); the other additional musician was a giant from a Polish yacht crew. He played and sang his counties music with gusto and when the landlord called "time" all were disappointed. So in pouring rain a happy crew returned to their wet bunks. At 06.30 hrs on the 30th this scribe awoke to a windy, damp mooring. Both crews had agreed to "hide" from the forecast storms in Newlyn, until the weather improved. I started breakfast but it was decided that after coffee, washing wet and dirty gear and drying it was the priority. So a bus trip to Penzance and a visit to a laundrette was the order of the day. More coffee was drunk in a wayside cafe while our bits and pieces tumbled in the dryer. Drier, the crew of Greensleeves returned to the boat at midday for our delayed breakfast. Terry joined us for a much needed fry-up. In the evening we retired to our now favorite pub in Newlyn for another session of eating and drinking. The entertainment was even better! Terry had persuaded a fellow musician who lived in the area to join him in singing and playing guitar for us. Nicola, proved to be a superb guitarist with a beautiful voice and a wicked sense of musical humour. We were all entranced. So to bed once again in pouring rain. Thursday the 31st July dawned. Still raining. The bedraggled crew from Greensleeves had heard that the Seamens Mission had washing and drying facilities. 3 So we collected more of our wet belongings and headed for the Mission. "Sorry all our washing machines are full. We return to Greensleeves to have a coffee and take stock. Were we down-hearted NO! Later in the day we joined Anne and Paul from Lasten in eating ice-creams in the pouring rain on the sea-front in ST Ives! The evening was spent having a quiet drink in Newlyn and a take-away meal (which Liz and I ate in the Pub). It was 04.30 hrs on Friday 1st August as the crews of Greensleeves and Lasten got ready for sea. It was planned that our two boat fleet would be increased by one for the rest of the trip. We had got to know a fellow west country wanderer by the name of Simon and he would be joining us in his boat Angel. At 05.30 hrs all three boats dropped their shore lines and headed out to sea. We were bound for Padstow. It quickly became apparent that the wind was too close on the bows to enable us to sail and that the seas left over from the last two days of force 5 and above were "uncomfortable". Greensleeves tried to set a scrap of steadying canvas but within 20 minutes was forced to furl it as we butted into the SE 4/5. Our companion Simon however, raised reefed jib and main and tacked continuously across our stern off Gwerinap Head. As we cleared Lands End both Greensleeves and Lasten raised well reefed jibs as we pitched and rolled our way north. Then on channel 77 we heard "Greensleeves this is Angel I have lost all steering. Please stand by me". There was little we could do in the conditions and Simon quickly sent out a Mayday. Within 5 minutes Falmouth Coastguard informed Simon that the lifeboat from Senna Cove was being launched and would be with him in 15 minutes. The lifeboat arrived as promised and took Angel in tow. We wished Simon good luck and continued on our way. Within 2 hours we were able to alter course directly for Trevose Head. With the tide under us and the wind on our sterns we were soon eating up the miles. Both boats registered above 10 kts as we surfed down the waves under foresails alone. Steering Greensleeves was hard work as the auto helm was having yet another fit of temperament (poor electrical connections actually). Off Trevose Head, Lasten motor sailed up to join Greensleeves for pilotage into Padstow. By 17 50 hrs both boats were rafted up in the inner harbour. Liz was particularly pleased to be ashore as the "wild seas" and possibly the chinese curry eaten in Newlyn had made her feel unwell during the day. Ashore that evening we ate at the local pub on the quay and Pat paid £5!!! for a glass of wine. At 05.00 hrs on Saturday 2nd of August, both crews prepared once again for sea. Still pursued by following seas and a light wind with Pentire Point abeam, we set sail. Lasten was determined to make WSM on Saturday so was making a direct passage at all costs. Greensleeves , skipper however, thought it more likely that we would brake our passage in Ilfracombe. Lasten therefore increased power on their engine and headed for the horizon. Off Tintagel Head Greensleeves was captured by fishing gear! The gear had wrapped itself round either the keel or rudder but in the swell it was difficult to determine exactly what was snared. Pat tried to hook part of the line streaming from the float. In the swell he lost the boat hook overboard. Pat called Lasten and she agreed to return to assist if possible. When Lasten arrived alongside she was first directed to recover the boat hook which Liz had kept in view. Success! now all Lasten had to do was to tow us free of the gear!! She failed but the attempt brought the glass floats at the other end of the gear hard up against the stern quarter of Greenseeves. The rope, tied to the floats was cut and slid away through the gap between rudder and skeg. We were free. Both boats resumed their courses with the thanks of Greensleeves resounding around Lasten. The delay confirmed our intention to head for Ilfracombe. We passed Hartland Point 4 nms to seaward and altered course for Bull Point. The tide and wind enabled us to reach Ifracombe by 16.30 hrs. We moored in the outer harbour to wait for high tide. Just before 17.30 we motored into the inner harbour and put lines ashore. However, the wall has so many unfriendly projections that we only stayed long enough for Liz to purchase some essential provisions (toilet rolls!). We then motored back to our previous mooring. At 22.30 hrs we dropped the mooring as the depth under our keel fell to less then 1 metre. Soon we were anchored in the roads in 4 metres waiting for the turn of the tide to speed us towards home. At 02.00 hrs on Sunday 3rd August the crew donned full wet/cold gear and steadily hauled the anchor in. All snugged down we ran parallel with the coast with the wind on our stern. The auto helm was not working yet again so it was a tired human helmsman who conned the vessel east and counted the lights as they passed to starboard.. Dawn broke, the temperature dropped and the clouds gathered. Rain fell but the wind stayed constant and Steepholm was in sight. 4 At 08.00 hrs on the 3rd of August Greensleeves entered Weston Bay on a broad reach and we still had enough fuel left to use the engine if necessary. The pier was gone! However, it was still home and a very tired crew tied up to the Club Pontoon. The fore peak was declared a no-go area and boat cleaning left "till the morrow". Pat had bought his battered boat home safely. Mick was proud of the muscles long periods on the helm had created and as Liz said, it had been "Heaven and Hell". Mick Aspell Author |